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| Chain-Stitch |
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History
According to material facts, Kashmiri embroidery is said to have originated in the 16th century, but the 13th-century Italian traveler Marco Polo, described designs that were used centuries earlier on carpets, robes, hangings, curtains, and table covers. Floral and medallion motifs similar to those found on Kashmiri rugs were most common. Embroidery was known in Kashmir probably from prehistoric times, but in the 16th century it was greatly encouraged by the Mughal emperors, under whose patronage many Kashmir artisans thrived in this trade.
Kashmiri chain-stitch rugs, crewel textiles and the world renowned Kashmiri (Cashmere) shawls are some of the top quality Kashmiri handicrafts which have no parallel in the world. Even though the technological advances have facilitated cheap imitations, this is one craft which would be impossible to mechanize. Because the basic element which goes into this art form is the human hand stitching the tireless stitches and the artful eye producing amazing pallets of color which together create these objects of magnificence.
Technique
Chain stitch is a popular stitch in sewing and embroidery. A series of looped stitches form a chain. It can be used decoratively and constructively. Also known as “Zalakdozi”, “tambour stitch” and “point de chainette”, there are several variations of chain stitch. Its use has a long history and is widespread, throughout the world. It is believed to have originated in Kashmir and Persia, where it is worked with the aid of a fine hook known as an “Ari”. In the west this tool which looks like a crochet hook, is also known as a 'tambour' hook. The chain stitch is believed to be the concept behind present day crochet work, which arrived on the scene sometime after the mid 1700s, when chain stitch reached Europe.
Artistry
The design rhythm of chain-stitching is both therapeutic and soothing. Using both silken as well as wool threads, natural shapes and motifs are transformed into colorful and decorative items. Here the real skill shows in the selection of the colors and textures of fabrics and threads and knowing what to put together with what - in fact, the usual design challenge.
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